Cache painting - Paint that keeps on keeping on... :)
-
- 150 or more caches found
- Posts: 247
- Joined: 02 June 03 11:19 pm
- Location: Paralowie, Adelaide, South Australia
- Contact:
Cache painting - Paint that keeps on keeping on... :)
I'm curious on what kind/brand of paints one uses to paint/camouflage their caches with? I've tried a couple of cheap cans of spray paint but I've found the results they give me is easy to scratch off even with the lightest knock/scratch.
- riblit
- It's the journey.
- Posts: 3444
- Joined: 04 April 03 6:30 pm
- Location: Land Grant of John Campbell
The surface probably has something to do with it as well. I have used a cheap paint from Bunnings and an expensive paint from Kmart. Both resist bending of the cache. I have one hanging in my workshop that I painted with the Bunnings paint. I can bend the cache without the paint cracking and it appears resistant to scratching.
-
- 200 or more found
- Posts: 103
- Joined: 05 April 03 10:43 am
- Location: The Shire (Southern Sydney)
- Contact:
The key is surface preparation, I use the cheapest of cheap spray paint from Bunnings (sometimes on special as low as $1.99 a can).
I use about 200 grit wetndry "sandpaper" and rough up all the surfaces that need painting.
I'll normally start with a coat of fairly light cream colour, and then add a variety of different colours (black, red, green, brown) in a mottled effect depending upon what the cache has to blend in with. All this is done very quickly so that the previous coat does not have time to dry.
I let the whole mess air dry for a couple of hours, then "bake" it in the oven (at low temperature approx 50° to 60° C) for another hour.
The resulting paint adheres reasonably well, but will crack off if handled too roughly.
The paint seems to have the added benefit of tasting lousy, which seems to partially deter critters.
Regards
Odlid Dave
I use about 200 grit wetndry "sandpaper" and rough up all the surfaces that need painting.
I'll normally start with a coat of fairly light cream colour, and then add a variety of different colours (black, red, green, brown) in a mottled effect depending upon what the cache has to blend in with. All this is done very quickly so that the previous coat does not have time to dry.
I let the whole mess air dry for a couple of hours, then "bake" it in the oven (at low temperature approx 50° to 60° C) for another hour.
The resulting paint adheres reasonably well, but will crack off if handled too roughly.
The paint seems to have the added benefit of tasting lousy, which seems to partially deter critters.
Regards
Odlid Dave
- Papa Bear_Left
- 800 or more hollow logs searched
- Posts: 2573
- Joined: 03 April 03 12:28 am
- Location: Kalamunda, WA
- Contact:
- Papa Bear_Left
- 800 or more hollow logs searched
- Posts: 2573
- Joined: 03 April 03 12:28 am
- Location: Kalamunda, WA
- Contact:
On a related topic, this is a template that a Kiwi cacher made available for camo painting.
http://www.automata.co.nz/misc/DPM.pdf
I gather that one prints these out, then laminates them, then cuts out the markings and paints them onto a prepainted background colour on the cache container.
http://www.automata.co.nz/misc/DPM.pdf
I gather that one prints these out, then laminates them, then cuts out the markings and paints them onto a prepainted background colour on the cache container.
- Papa Bear_Left
- 800 or more hollow logs searched
- Posts: 2573
- Joined: 03 April 03 12:28 am
- Location: Kalamunda, WA
- Contact:
-
- 400 or more spectacular views seen
- Posts: 1357
- Joined: 08 April 03 1:14 pm
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
-
- 200 or more found
- Posts: 103
- Joined: 05 April 03 10:43 am
- Location: The Shire (Southern Sydney)
- Contact:
- Papa Bear_Left
- 800 or more hollow logs searched
- Posts: 2573
- Joined: 03 April 03 12:28 am
- Location: Kalamunda, WA
- Contact:
There's been a couple of pages of discussion on the Kiwi site and one comment in particular interested me.
Apparently, the accepted method of removing the wax from Tupperware-style containers before printing on them is to pass a yellow flame over them. Don't hold the flame in one spot!
(It does give the box a nice, natural, easy-to-hide shape, but the lid's a bit hard to get back on!)
A local pyromaniac here is going to try it this weekend and report back. Watch this (blackened?) space!
Apparently, the accepted method of removing the wax from Tupperware-style containers before printing on them is to pass a yellow flame over them. Don't hold the flame in one spot!
(It does give the box a nice, natural, easy-to-hide shape, but the lid's a bit hard to get back on!)
A local pyromaniac here is going to try it this weekend and report back. Watch this (blackened?) space!
-
- 200 or more found
- Posts: 103
- Joined: 05 April 03 10:43 am
- Location: The Shire (Southern Sydney)
- Contact:
-
- 150 or more caches found
- Posts: 247
- Joined: 02 June 03 11:19 pm
- Location: Paralowie, Adelaide, South Australia
- Contact:
Sounds like just the thing. Where is this product available from? Cost?SNIFTER wrote:The spay stone stuff is what we use for our disguise on some of our containers. I have used it on plastic and on metal. Looks great and it really does blend in with the surroundings. I have also used the beaten metal stuff as well.
-
- It's all in how you get there....
- Posts: 2185
- Joined: 28 March 03 6:00 pm
The stuff I use is by Plasti-kote, called fleck stone spray paint, comes in a range of "colours" from gray to green. it is found at all hardwares and most of the big variety stores that carry paint. Also the hammer tone paints that Snifter refered to before can be found at most of the same locations. Price well that can vary but anywhere from $7 to $14 is the price range that I have seen around my area.